Bhutan, an experience in itself!

I had heard so much about Bhutan that when I quit my job and had an opportunity to travel without any worry, the first country we chose to travel to (this was April 2023) was Bhutan. Its close proximity to India and no visa hassles served as an added advantage. It was just me and my sister travelling, for the first time to another land all on our own. We planned every bit and detail of our itinerary ourselves and also added a one-night halt at the city of joy, Kolkata since we had a connecting flight from Bangalore (India) to Bhutan via Kolkata anyway. That 5N/6D trip remains one of our most beautiful memories.

Arriving at Kolkata first, nothing seemed commonplace in this city. It was so vibrant and so spectacular, with its endless bazaars and all its food delights. It was definitely the right start for us. The next day, we took our flight to Bhutan, on the nation’s royal carrier, Drukair. Let me tell you if you don’t know already, your experience of this Buddhist land starts in the air, from that moment the majestic Himalayas and dense forests start appearing in your plane window and before you know it, the plane has started it's adventurous descend for a touchdown. Landing at the city of Paro and Bhutan’s only international airport is an adventure on its own, no doubt only a handful of pilots in the world are skilled & certified to fly in this challenging region, only during daylight hours. The runaway appears tiny like a matchbox from the window, the valley around is dense and while you are figuring out in your mind how on Earth we can land here, the plane takes a jolt to its left to avoid hitting a mountain right before the airport and comes running down while forcefully halting its way just on time (and you realise inches count). It’s a remarkable landing (and take-off is just the same) while your heart missed a couple of beats.

You are taken to another world when you step out of the plane. Paro Airport is unlike any other, it’s like a historic monument on its own, with the river Paro Chhu surrounding the place making it even more spectacular. The peace and quiet that welcome you inside is like no place else, I personally haven’t been to such a calm airport before (it’s as if we are in a monastery already), without any hustle and bustle of travellers and unending announcements. The ceilings and the walls are filled with Bhutanese local architecture and artworks are displayed throughout the airport, transforming it into the largest art gallery and exhibition space in the country. It provides you with a taste of what lies beyond. Immigration at the airport is fairly simple for Indian nationals and there is an entry fee that you pay per day of your stay (INR 1200 per day) which includes sustainable development fees the government of Bhutan uses for the welfare of their citizens, education of the Bhutanese children, health facilities etc. Visiting Bhutan isn’t inexpensive anymore since COVID-19 when the government decided to impose this charge.

Paro is the first touchpoint for any international visitor to Bhutan. This scenic city is not only a very historic place boasting many beautiful temples (Lhakhang), world-famous monasteries, nunnery, Dzongs, bridges, the National Museum etc. but it has a serenity and peace of its own. Thimphu is the capital city and true to its name, represents versatility and enthusiasm. It offers colourful buildings, bustling markets and the rich heritage of Bhutan at the National Memorial Chorten, the Folk Heritage Museum, and the Tashichho Dzong, the seat of the government and the monastic body. You can also enjoy the scenic views of the valley and the mountains from the Buddha Dordenma, a giant statue of Buddha overlooking the city (this statue also houses over one hundred thousand smaller Buddha statues, each of which, like the Great Buddha Dordenma itself, are made of bronze and gilded in gold).

The places to visit are endless and there are travel times involved as you are always in mountains and valleys. However, every place you choose to visit in Bhutan surely attempts to live up to your expectations, and some of them will exceed it too. You may want to hire the local Bhutanese tourist guides and they help take you through the places helping you understand the historical importance, answering your whys and why-nots, and generally connecting the dots (at some places you are not allowed entry without a certified tourist guide). Most of them are so passionate about Bhutan, that hearing them speak makes you feel like you are watching a movie with those events happening right in front of your eyes (you may end up hiring Sonam, which by the way is an extremely common name there).

The Bhutanese take a lot of pride in their country, in their kings and queens which they consider next to Gods and never fail to show gratitude to others including neighbouring countries. You will hardly hear a hate word from them. It's truly God’s own country in endless ways. They are living and breathing Buddhism. A small child in Bhutan may not know his alphabet correctly but he knows the teachings of the Buddha in his heart. Bhutan is the only country on Planet Earth which is carbon negative, this kingdom is able to absorb more carbon dioxide than it produces, thanks to its extensive forests. The mountains are considered sacred here and although it is home to some of the highest mountains in the world, mountaineering is banned in Bhutan.

Now, don’t be surprised if your driver stops to give a random stranger a lift in his car as this is their way of being helpful. Giving and helping is the way of life there. There is so much selflessness around that it shakes you down to your soul. Their food tastes amazing, not only because it’s made from fresh ingredients but also because it has traces of love. Frozen foods are not very popular still and so are packaged foods, though the younger generation is catching up with the world on this. Sights of locals wearing Gho and Kira (the traditional dresses for Men and Women in Bhutan) are very common, and there is a certain charm & pride you can see on their faces adorning their national dress. Your cravings for desserts after a good meal might have to wait since you are more likely to be served with beetle nut and butter tea instead. Non-vegetarian food is available though it's mostly imported from its neighbouring countries, so the locals prefer their local homegrown organic variety of veggies, greens and cheese. Believe me, their national dish Ema Datshi (chilly cheese but it’s not super spicy) is to die for. The fermented dried yak cheese is also a delicacy here. Despite the extensive use of cheese in their diet, Bhutanese are genetically very fit and healthy. Lucky them.

We were just two girls on our own, but not for one moment did we feel unsafe or worried for our security or safety during our entire trip. We hired new cabs and guides almost daily but our travel experience was all smooth and good. It’s a land you can call extremely safe for solo/women travellers alike. There isn’t any local public transport available though, so you are more or less dependent on hired cabs which are usually prebooked through your hotel.

Amidst your own to-do list to be ticked here, do remember to pause, breathe in the pure air, and fill your heart with the joy and peace that this place offers. For what it’s worth, you will realise that from the moment you set foot on this serene Buddhist land, all you can feel is the glory, the joy, the simplicity of life and true Buddhism in the hearts of the Bhutanese. Bhutan makes you fall in love with it instantly. The food, the people, the temples and the way of life, everything seems to flow so beautifully. It's impossible not to be inspired by their pure living. This rugged Himalayan land can teach you patience, focus and appreciation for the little things in life that we otherwise tend to take for granted. No doubt, it’s considered one of the happiest places on Earth. Their GNH index (Gross National Happiness) would catch your eye too, it’s a philosophy which guides the Bhutanese government and is used to measure the collective happiness and well-being of its population.

So, when you decide to visit Bhutan, be ready to lose the impatience, the frantic pace of life and the self-absorption that we are so inclined to in our daily lives, and be ready to embrace the path to lead a simplified life. The Sun shines a bit brighter in Bhutan and the mountains seem steeper yet friendly & inviting. The hike to the highest monastery (Taktsang or Tiger Nest as commonly called) may seem steep and dangerous but it will give you a distinct sense of achievement and joy. This country surely should be added to your bucket list of places to see in this lifetime. You will surely realise that being too efficient or too fast or being a multi-tasker may actually be driving us away and beyond our aliveness and happiness which we so frantically seek. So, try the Bhutanese way- surrender at the moment and let happiness find you.